Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Utraviolet Light in Oil Painting Restoration


One procedure we use to analyse the condition of an oil painting is examination under ultraviolet light, which can yield much information.
Museum Shop, Ltd. has found hidden signatures which were not visible under normal light. We have found second, presumably original, signatures. Details not visible to the naked eye can be apparent under ultraviolet light.
This is a close-up of part of a painting from the 1700s brought to us for restoration. When the owner purchased the painting, she was assured that it had never been restored. Our ultraviolet examination, however, clearly showed the tell-tale spots of previous retouching, (the dark spots) which was extensive. The owner was shocked!
Today's standard of practice in art restoration are to retouch a painting as little as possbile. The more a conservator adds to a painting, the less it becomes the work of the original artist.
Additionally, all work done by a conservator should be fully reversible.

How is an Etching Made?

Before cameras were commonplace, there was no way to save the images of places visited, loved ones, events, etc.......unless you were an artist. Doing an oil painting was fine, but it only produced one. Enter etching, which was (partially) portable and could produce many copies.

Artists such as James McNiell Whistler and Joseph Pennell carried etching plates (more later) with them, especially when travelling, and could stop and scratch the image into the plate with a diamond point etching needle, recording what they were seeing. When they returned to their studios, they did the second half of the process, the printing.

An etching is made on a copper (more expensive but softer) or zinc etching plate, which is simply a sheet of metal the size of the finished etching, with a polished surface. Several could easily fit in a saddlebag or suitcase. On location, the artist uses a diamond-point etching needle to scratch (etch) the image into the etching plate. Back in the studio, he applies ink to the plate, puts a piece of paper on top, sandwiches these between two thick felt blankets, and puts them through his etching press, a finished "dry point" etching. Because the lines in the plate are relatively shallow and they get "mashed" each time the plate is put through the press, the plate may not be able to produce many good prints. Drypoint etchings are almost always printed with black or sepia ink.
The more complicated process is usually simply called an etching. Before etching the image into the plate, the artist coats it evenly with wax , or ground. He etches the image into the plate and submerges it in a large tray of nitric acid. The acid eats away the artist's lines, or image, which is where the ground has been removed. The remaining wax protects the areas where the ground remains. The longer the plate is in the acid, the deeper and wider the lines become. An eagle feather may be gently stroked across the plate to remove oxygen bubbles. Most artists will judge if the lines have become wide enough by not only examining the plate, but also feeling the lines with their fingers. When he is satisfied, the plate is removed from the acid, the ground is removed with turpentine, and a print,(an artist's proof), is made. The artist, if he approves of the result, then prints as many etchings as he wishes. If he is not satisfied with the result, he may cover the plate with ground again and deepen the image with his etching needle or add more detail, then put it into the acid again. Several artist's proofs may have to be made and they all get the notation in pencil at the bottom, "AP" or, in French, "EA". Because the lines are wider and deeper than with dry point etchings, it's possible to print more etchings this way, before the plate breaks down.
Whistler printed his own etchings, and because of the time and physical work required, his editions were small, often around 25 prints. Most ethical artists today print editions of 100-300. When editions are much larger, it may mean that the artist is very commercial. Artists who are especially prolific may create the etched plate themselves, then turn the printing, the manual labor, over to someone who specializes in doing it.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Antique Japanese Woodcuts

MUSEUM SHOP, LTD. is currently having a show of original Japanese woodcuts, most from the Edo Period (1600-1868). Featured are woodblock prints (ukiyo-e) by the Masters: Ando Hiroshige, Hiroshige II, Kawase Hasui, Hiroshi Yoshida, Tokoriki, Sharaku, Haranobu, and other important Japanese artists. Some depict scenes of the vibrant, plebian life of Old Japan; some are scenes of fierce warriors; some are lovely landscapes of Mount Fuji; some show actors; castles; and some show beautiful courtesans. Much of this art was created to please the Shoguns, but much of it was made for the common Japanese people as well.
The Edo Period was a time of social and political unrest. It was a time of great austerity, when there were censors who dictated which colors could be used, and every finished print had to bear a censor's seal of approval. Artists combined elements from both Japanese and Chinese art to form their own art movement. Students would study for years with their masters, often eventually adopting their names. Many of these prints survived only because they were sewn into books. Many of the woodblocks in this country today were brought here by American soldiers returning home from Japan after WWII.